Technical Tips & Hints

 

 

engines

annual maintenance

INBOARD - Annual Maintenance
1. Change the oil and filter every year irrespective of the hours run.
2. Change/clean the air and fuel filters.
3. Flush out all cooling passages with fresh water, some people recommend putting anti freeze in the engine for the winter layup period. Remove, clean and test the water thermostat.
4. Check the water pump casing for leaks, also the separate oil pipe to the filter which has failed due to external corrosion.
5. The exhaust bend from the cylinder head, corrosion of this item has led to expensive cylinder head renewal and other damage. Remove to check for any signs of excessive corrosion.
6. Waterside anode. Renew if more than 50% expended.
7. Loss of power/smoke - get your fuel injection equipment checked.
8. Keep the engine free of oil and water leaks. Keep the compartment clean.
9. On older boats be aware the flexible mountings will require renewal at some time.

Additional Note from Ross Bell
Item 10 - To fill the fuel tank to the brim. A tank left partly empty will cause condensation to form on the cold sides of the tank above the fuel level. The water droplets will subsequently run down to the bottom of the tank. These can be removed as they go through the system if you purge the C.A.V filter and sediment bowl, but as usual, prevention is better than cure.

OUTBOARD - Annual Maintenance
1. Change the final drive oil.
2. Flush out all cooling passages with fresh water. Remove and clean the water thermostat, check for operation in hot water.
3. Remove propeller, grease splines and shaft. Check for any seal leakage.
4. Anodes. Most engines have an anode fitted on the drive leg , renew if more than 50% expended.
5. Renew spark plug, keep all electrics clean and occasionally coat them with WD40. With the plug removed inject 2 stroke oil through the plug hole and rotate engine to distribute same.
6. Grease all throttle linkages.
7. Be aware that the use of petrol/oil mixtures which have been left stored over the winter can cause problems, best to renew.

Finally during the season do not leave the outboard sitting in place in the water for any longer than necessary. When removing try and drain all water out of the unit before placing in a locker. If stowed on its side keep the cylinder head at a higher level than the drive leg.

Before stowage when stopping engine shut the fuel off and run to stop

winterising procedure

The operation manual gives the procedure for winterising, including draining the cooling water system, which must involve dismantling the water pump. The following alternative method is suggested by E.P. Barrus Ltd, the concessionaires:-

Assuming the boat is removed from the water, carry out the following:

1. Disconnect the cooling water supply pipe from the water inlet seacock.

2. Arrange for a fresh water supply from a 2-3 gallon bucket (preferably topped up from a mains supply.

3. Run engine for 10-15 minutes until operating temperture is reached and thermostat is permitting full circulation around the block.

4. Stop engine momentarily and recharge bucket with 2 gallons of antifreeze solution. Then run engine again until bucket is empty when all fresh water in the cooling system should have been replaced by antifreeze mix.

5. The block can then be drained via the drain tap if preferred (see operation manual) or the antifreeze left throughout the waterways of the cooling system for the winter.

water in the fuel

Do you own an early inboard Shrimper that suffers from water in the fuel? If so the following will be of interest. My Shrimper (438) has suffered from small but annoying quantities of water in the fuel for many years which myself and the previous owner had put down to condensation in the fuel tank. Last winter, some fairly complicated detective work, showed that the water was not in fact condensation, but small quantities of rainwater that had found its way past the RWO inspection hatch above the fuel tank filler. With the movement of the boat on her mooring water found its way past the joint between the fuel filler assembly and the top of the tank and thus into the fuel. Rectification is very straightforward. Firstly, obtain a new 100mm RWO inspection hatch from your local chandler. Mine cost the princely sum of £5.38. The latest hatch is an improved design and incorporates an 'O' ring seal into the lid, thus ensuring a 100% waterproof fit. It is a straight 1 for 1 swap, but remember to bed it down onto a suitable sealant. Whilst the hatch is removed, check and renew the seal between the filler cap and the tank. This is not quite so straightforward, but proceed as follows: Unscrew the fuel filler cap and carefully unscrew the 3 countersunk screws that attach the assembly to the top of the tank and lift clear. The utmost care needs to be taken to ensure you don't drop anything into the fuel tank! If, like mine, no seal is fitted on top of the tank, you will need to make one from jointing material. Your local marine engineer might give you an offcut, which will need to be marked out and cut to size with a small pair of scissors. Then remove any burrs from the top of the tank with a small file, again being careful that nothing is dropped into the tank. Coat the joint you have made with a fuel resistant jointing compound such as 'Hylomar' (available at motor acessory shops) and then re-assemble the whole thing. Since carrying out this work last winter I have not had a single drop of water in the fuel filter.