Logs & Articles
Bumble Chugger
Shrimper Week in Falmouth - 16- 24 June 2006
Robin and Gillie Whittle
Friday, 16 June: We set off on our long drive down to Falmouth at 8 am and after passing Exeter at midday we decided to stop off at the King’s Head at Tedburn St Mary. The last time we had been there was to meet up with Martin and Sarah Pumphrey. After a refreshing drink we decided to drive a little way into Dartmoor to have our picnic lunch, little knowing how dramatically the roads would change once off the dual carriageway. We suddenly found ourselves driving up and down steep lanes only just wide enough for the boat and with high banks and hedges on either side. After ten minutes of this we found a place to stop at a ‘T’ junction which provided just enough space for other cars to pass. We sat in the boat having our sandwiches with a view of the rolling hills and rabbits playing in the nearby field. We caused great amusement for those in cars trying to find a way past us.
The remaining part of the journey to Mylor was hot and tedious with a long stretch of road works near Truro. However the directions down to Mylor Harbour were clear and we found Mark Osborn with his Camper Van welcoming all new comers. He provided us with clear instructions on where to take the boat to get it rigged and launched. As soon as we were rigged we drove down to the slipway but we had to wait two hours for the tide to rise high enough for launching. We were afloat by 6pm and we motored round to the outer bund of the Marina to raft up with ‘Shy Talk’ on one side and ‘Blue Belle’ on the other. We celebrated our arrival with a glass of red wine all round. Later Rob prepared our traditional eggs and bacon supper and then an early night after a long days travel.
Saturday, 17 June: We were greeted by clear blue skies and hot sun, and after a leisurely start drove into Penryn on the outskirts of Falmouth to get our R&S sails repaired. We found the SKB sail loft from Mark’s directions easily, and a very friendly sailmaker suggested that we should make do with sticky patches over the mouse holes. He had some suitable cloth and the job was completed within ten minutes. Later we noticed that several of the local sailors used SKB sails which were beautifully shaped.
On returning to Mylor Harbour we set sail for the Pandora Inn at Restronguet, a mile or so up one of the creeks. It took a few hours in the very light breeze and we arrived at the quay to the pub just in time for a pre-lunch drink. ‘Kittiwake’ had already tied up and we rafted up with them. We found a bench outside and enjoyed our drinks in the sunshine with Ted, Robert, Barry and Carol. A Falmouth Working Boat was having its hull painted while dried out on the muddy foreshore. They have very beautifully shaped hulls. The tide was dropping as we left and we were concerned that Ted and Robert might leave it too late and find themselves high and dry, missing the welcoming dinner that evening – bringing back memories of the East Coast Shrimper Week when they had missed both the welcoming and final dinners being well and truly stuck on the mud. But all was well, and they managed to get afloat and were last seen motoring back to Mylor.
We anchored near the mouth of Restronguet Creek to have a picnic lunch and then sketched and painted for a while. Before returning to Mylor Harbour we motored a little way up Restronguet Creek. On the way back we tacked over to St Just and had a quick glimpse of the little bay. We did not sail into the Pool as we knew we would be visiting it three days later as part of the main programme. On returning to Mylor Harbour we rafted up with ‘Badger’ (Andrew and Tina FitzGerald) and Tina brewed us a very welcome cup of tea. It was then time to walk over to the Restronguet Sailing Club to receive our first briefing. Mark Osborn gave us a very amusing presentation, explaining the alternatives for the next day of either sailing to the Helford River or Coverack Bay. He described the Manacles as ‘Nasty, Nasty Rocks!’. After briefing we walked back to Castaways on the quayside where we were given an excellent supper, meeting many new faces. Mark had provided everyone with large name tabs so we were able to put names against faces very easily.
Sunday, 18 June: The weather was showing signs of breaking and the forecast was not good. We had clear blue skies to begin with, but clouds soon started to build up. The first trip arranged was to be a visit to the Helford River or Coverack. After having coffee with the Pumphreys we set off to explore Mylor Creek. It wound round corners with steep shores on either side. There were some very expensive properties with their own access to the water sometimes with an elaborate boat house.
An hour later we joined the general flow of boats out past Black Rock into Falmouth Bay. We had decided to go to Helford River. The wind, from the west steadily increased as we sailed across the bay and we were glad to make our first stop in Gillam Creek. Rob had nostalgic memories of St Anthony from forty five years back. He had come down to the beach by the church at sunset and the whole valley resonated with the sound of organ music from the church. We found a very pleasant spot to anchor and have lunch, sheltered from the wind. Afterwards Rob pumped up Bum Chug and paddled to the shore to revisit the church while Gillie sketched.
We then both went ashore for a walk along a section of the coast path. This took us over the headland to a fantastic view overlooking the Helford River, Falmouth Bay to Falmouth and St Mawes, and in the distance Dodman Point. A fine looking galleon was sailing slowly into Helford River. We made our way back to our creek and were just in time to save ‘Bumble Chugger’ from going aground in the fast falling ebb tide. We set sail up the river into a puffy head wind, soon finding ourselves overtaking several long rowing boats spread out across the river about to start a race. There were a number of other Shrimpers sailing in, all being very careful to keep out of the way of the competitors. When we arrived at the Helford Pool we found Mark speeding about in a rib helping everyone to find a suitable mooring. All the reserved buoys in the middle of the river looked very exposed to the strong gusts that were kicking up the water into a chop, with spray flying off the tops of waves. We decided that we would look for a mooring close into the southern shore near Helford village with as much shelter as possible. Soon after we had found one ‘Badger’ appeared and moored up nearby.
We had booked a table at the Shipwright Arms for 7pm. It was still blowing quite hard and we were contemplating a wet row to the shore in ‘Bum Chug’ when there was a bang on our hull and there was Tony Coles (‘Shy Talk’) in his much larger inflatable complete with outboard engine. He whisked us ashore and we had a pleasant walk along a leafy pathway to the pub. It was buzzing with people and we were glad that we had booked a table in advance. We enjoyed an excellent meal and after a good chat made our way back to the boats for a reasonably early night.
Monday, 19 June: We awoke to another grey and windy day. We had opted to spend the day exploring the upper reaches of the Helford River to Gweek. We rowed ashore to the Helford Sailing Club for the day’s briefing and were told that Wilf Coon in ‘Alba’ would be our lead boat for the day. There were twenty five boats joining in and most of them set off motoring up the river. We decided to sail against the puffy head wind and were soon left far behind. It is a beautiful river with the banks covered with a blanket of oaks growing down to the water’s edge. We passed Frenchman’s Creek, which was especially interesting to Rob who was reading Daphne du Maurier’s novel of the same name. The tide was beginning to ebb by the time we reached Gweek so 
we didn’t hang around. On the way back we went badly aground and, having lifted the centreboard, were lucky to escape with the aid of a big puff. Six or so boats tied up at the Bishop’s Quay on the south shore, some to have their picnic lunches there and some to have a walk through the beech woods. We joined up with Tina and Andrew FitzGerald for a walk – we didn’t have long with the falling tide, but it was so beautiful through the tall trees with banks along the sides of the path full of summer flowers giving off a hot damp scent. The sun almost came out - the day had been overcast up to then with fine curtains of rain blowing through.
Ian Fisher and his sister Jane arrived just as we were about to leave - a pity as earlier Rob had tried to persuade Jane to give a recital on her flute during the lunch period.
As we said our good-byes to the Helford River and sailed off on our return to Falmouth the weather became rather nasty, and any ideas of exploring other local creeks were abandoned. We sailed into Falmouth Marina and rafted up with other Shrimpers at a large horse-shoe shaped pontoon. That evening we had arranged to go to a talk at the National Maritime Museum given by Bob Mitchell, a local rower, who had taken part in a rowing race across the Atlantic. It turned out to be a most interesting description of how the voyage took place, including all the set backs he and his friend had experienced whilst turning the plan into a reality, the hardships of the crossing and the final disappointment of capsizing a mere 100 miles from Antigua. They were rescued and a few days later the upturned boat was washed ashore (having completed the final leg on its own!). Although they and the boat crossed the Atlantic, they no longer qualified as completing the race; he seemed to take this very matter of factly – very stoically. Rob’s ankle had started to, and after the talk we decided to return to the boat for a meal on board. On our way back the lady Harbour Master kindly gave us a card for the loos and showers without having to pay a deposit.
Tuesday, 20 June: The main event of the day was to take part in the Cooking Competition. We had arranged to join forces with Tina and Andrew and they and Gillie went off shopping. Rob stayed behind to straighten the aerial at the top of the mast which had got bent the day before. He moved the boat to a high part in the marina and managed to get it sorted out with the help of Tony Coles.
After returning the loo card and collecting Rob’s camera batteries from the Harbour Master, who had kindly recharged them overnight, we set sail up the estuary in order to reach Truro before high water. There was only a very limited amount of time with enough water and not many boats made it to the little quay right in the heart of the town. The river leading through the ‘suburbs’ was not very picturesque, but there was a lovely view of the cathedral from some way away across the flood plains. We rafted up with ‘Boyers Shrimper’ and ‘Froya’ and had a brief chat with Mark and Ian Gibson before retracing our steps with the start of the ebb.
Before joining the Cooking Competition Shrimpers on the mid river pontoon at Ruan, we explored up the River Fal whilst there was still enough water. We got nearly to the end, seeing Egrets in the trees, and a deer down by the water’s edge in a small clearing of the trees that form a cloak bordering all these rivers.
The weather was pretty nasty by now and we made our way back to the Ruan pontoon where Tony Coles was on duty coordinating the mooring of boats. Twenty or so boats were already rafted up, making preparations for the banquet! We set to immediately getting things ready for our ‘roast’. The first task was to get the ‘Oven’ very hot and mix the batter for the Yorkshire puds.
The ‘Oven’ had been Gillie grandmother’s ‘Wonder Portable Oven’ which was designed to be used on a gas ring. We intended to roast our beef, Yorkshire puds and parsnips in it. The roast potatoes were to be fried separately in the frying pan. The ‘Oven’ had to be very hot to start the Yorkshire puds and things got a bit hectic in the cabin as the food started to cook. A smell of singeing varnish required immediate action – this was resolved by soaking cloths in water and draping them over the wood work in the cabin. We were then surrounded by a thick fog and the temperature continued to rise. At one time when things were getting very difficult we were offered a pre-supper drink. Gillie popped a boiled shrimp face out of the cabin and stated sharply that it was an inconvenient moment. Meanwhile Tina and Andrew were cooking seafood surprise and summer pudding, and they also had the job of setting up the table. Tina produced a beautiful menu card.
Outside the weather got worse and worse; the rain started and the wind rose and whistled about us. The poor judges were having a damp and cold time running up and down the pontoon checking progress, then judging the final results and taking photos. A small consolation was that they were invited to a continuous stream of wine and food tasting. We were very proud of our result. Tina and Andrew had set up a wonderful table setting, and the meal was quite delicious.
The results of the competition were announced the following evening and we were presented with a certificate for a meal cooked in ‘True British spirit’ . The other menus and settings sounded quite amazing and the first prize went to a consortium led by Ann and Freddie Glorie.
Wednesday, 21 June: The weather had improved by the time we rose the next morning, and we set off on an amazing Treasure Hunt compiled by Jane Benge. She had set up three sets of questions starting from different points of the river, but all ending with clues at St Just in Roseland church. She really got our grey matter going with some very tricky questions.
At St Just we had some delays getting into the pool, as many of the boats started to drag their moorings in the strong wind. We finally got into place and rafted up with four others. There was a lot of manoeuvres and re-anchoring as we all shifted about , but at last all seemed secure and we rowed ‘Bum Chug’ across to the church.
The pool was a magical place and the church with its graveyard climbing up the hillside looked quite beautiful. We finished our clues and rowed across the bay again to Lower Tregorland – Claud and Sheila Lanyon’s house. They were hosting the Shrimper Fleet to a Cornish pasty lunch in their garden. They had an amazing place overlooking St Just pool, with a quite delightful garden which Claud and Sheila had created from an overgrown wilderness. 
We could not stay long as the tide was starting to ebb and about to leave us high and dry. We found that the rest of our group of boats had left and ‘Bumble Chugger’ was being held in place by a long line to the shore that Peter and Charmian Gibson had set up, and they were kindly standing guard in ‘Turuna’.
We motored back to Mylor Harbour and left some things from the boat in the car and tied ‘Bum Chug’ up on a pontoon. Then it was back to Ruan pontoon for an evening trip to Tresillick House. We barely had time to tidy up before the River Boat arrived to pick us up and take us back down river to the Tresillick pontoon. We wound our way up and up the hillside path, through pleasant greenery and tall colourful foxgloves which seem to abound everywhere here, and so to the beautiful gardens around the house. There was some confusion as to where we were to assemble and where we would get our pre-dinner drinks, but we finally gathered in the courtyard where Tony Hampton announced the results of the cooking competition. There were several different sorts of Certificates of Merit and in fact most of the competitors received something. The winners are required to judge next year’s competition! 
A group of Cornish folk singers serenaded us for a while and then we split into two groups for the dinner; one going to the Courtyard restaurant and the other to the Barn restaurant. We had another very good meal, entertained now and then by the singers and a performance of their dancing puppets. It was an excellent evening organised by Kitty and Mike Eccles (though he said that he had kept a low profile!). We finished by wending our way back down the path to the pontoon, to be picked up by the ferry and returned to the Ruan pontoon.
Thursday, 22 June: The clouds were higher this morning and the wind less blustery. It was to be the Anniversary Race day and we headed off down to Mylor harbour to get ready. We off loaded more of the heavy things – tool box, food tins and full petrol cans – onto the shore with ‘Bum Chug’, and then sailed out in good time to reconnoitre the marks for the race. Those in the fleet who wished to race were split into two groups – even sail numbers and odd sail numbers. The first five in each group would qualify to sail in the finals the following evening as part of the Mylor Club racing. We were an even number and so started with the first group. The second group started fifteen minutes later.
We had a good start with the wind coming from the south west. We had a fetch up under the headland between Falmouth and Mylor and it became a bit of a lottery whether the inshore route, which was more gusty, or the outside route which had more consistent wind, would pay off. We were pressed hard by ‘Salt Horse II’ and found ourselves being forced closer to the shore than we would have liked, and consequently let two boats through our lea, and we rounded the first mark in fifth position. ‘Daisy’ showed a good turn of speed on the next two legs and overtook all but the leader (with doggy crew, Tigger, peering over the coaming with beady eyes!). We managed to hold our position until we were back on the awkward leg under the headland. This again turned out to be a lottery; the wind died as the lead boats approached the mark and we managed to pick up a place as we rounded the mark. ‘Mairi Bahn’ was close behind and on the next leg forced us up wind to keep clear air. We managed to stay ahead and at the next mark (the last) we held them off, and just managed sixth position just ahead of ‘Mairi Bahn’ and ‘Salt Horse II’. It had been an exciting race. One of the first three boats could not sail the following day so we qualified to race in the finals.
By now the sun had come out and sailed across to St Mawes into Cellars Bay and beached the boat next to ‘Daisy’. Rob put our anchors out and gave Tigger a lift to the shore. It was lovely to bask in the sun for a change while we had our lunch. A trip up the Percuil River was scheduled for the afternoon and we pottered up the river as far as we could through pleasant woods and rolling fields. There was a huge noise in the trees at one point. A hawk was trying to invade a nest in the trees and it was being chased off by the crows. We noticed a number of little egrets along the stony shore and a few rabbits scuttling up into the trees.
It was getting very shallow as we neared a white cottage near the head of the river, and after waving to two people sitting in the sun we turned and retraced our steps. We continued down the river until we came upon the entrance to the Porth Creek: there was still plenty of water there so we turned up it to explore. We came to a house which marked the end of the navigable channel and dropped anchor whilst we made a cup of tea. We were close to a little waterfall which flowed over a weir from a deep pool beside the house. An egret was standing patiently at the edge of the waterfall waiting for a catch. We watched for a long time and once saw it with something silvery wriggling in its beak.
When the echo sounder started beeping, we motored back to the Percuil and up to the upper end of the moorings where we had arranged to raft up with ‘Daisy’, ‘Salt Horse II’ and ‘Quetzal’ for the evening. Peter and Penny went off in their dinghy to explore the shore, taking Tigger with them for his evening run. On their return we gathered in ‘Bumble Chugger’ for drinks. Somehow we managed to fit eight on board. We were glad to be on an old style Shrimper, as we understood that the new self bailing cockpits fill with water when there is too much weight aboard. We enjoyed several drinks with nuts and Pringles before returning to our respective crafts to have separate meals – us to eggs, bacon and mushrooms. We separated off to find a mooring close by for the night. We finished up with a game of Black Jack which Gillie won (5-2).
Friday, 23 June: It was a lovely still morning with all the boats reflected in the water. We motored down to St Mawes harbour. A local ferry boatman told us to move to a mooring outside the harbour. We assumed that he was organised to give us a lift ashore and sure enough he picked us up very quickly. We arrived at the Sailing Club too late for the briefing, but Mark was still there and gave a short synopsis. Gillie then went off to shop for the barbecue lunch at Roundwood Quay. Rob stayed to get bread on the harbour quay and then returned to the Sailing Club to read all about the Sunbeam Class of yachts which had become popular in Falmouth. A beautiful classic shaped three-quarter decked boat. The ferry boat took us the few yards back to ‘Bumble Chugger’ and we were rather miffed to be charged £6. If we had realised that there would be a charge we would have just run ‘Bumble Chugger’ ashore.
The next excitement was the ‘engine race’. The rules seemed very complicated, but basically we were allowed to use the engine for 50% of the total time of the race. It was an extraordinary sight leaving St Mawes, with all the Shrimpers going hell for leather – sails up and engines roaring at top revs! Towards the end of the race it required careful judgement to ensure that no penalty points were added. Rob decided that he should have used more engine power earlier, but we still did well and came in 5 th. 
The race led us up towards Roundwood Quay and when we arrived there were already over forty boats anchored in the pool. Mark was buzzing around in his rib organising where boats should be moored. We rafted up against the quay wall. Already smoke was rising out over the water accompanied by good smells of food. Ladders had been set up on trestles to hold our disposable barbecues – a very neat arrangement, and a large barrel of beer had been donated by the local brewery. Roy Harper added to the fine lunch that we had brought, by giving us two mackerel (ready gutted!) that he had caught earlier that morning. Our barbecue was very reluctant to heat up, but with help from our next-door-barbecuers and use of other barbecues that were not being used, we had a delicious meal.
The final of the Anniversary Race was scheduled for 7 pm so we left Roundwood Quay soon after we had finished our very late lunch and motored back to Mylor. By the time we arrived boats were beginning to sail out for the regular Friday night club race. The Sailing Club had decided to allow more than just the five boats that had qualified from the two heats, so the Shrimper finals included about twenty boats. The other classes all started before us and our course was just one round of a triangle finishing with a short beat up to the Committee Boat line. The first beat was over a mile and it was quite surprising how unbiased it turned out to be. We had gone out on starboard following ‘Camilla’. In fact we both slightly overstepped the lay-line but still arrived at the mark second and fourth. The next two legs were a bit of a procession, and the wind dropped to almost nothing as we arrived at the leeward mark. There was a lot of overlap as we turned the mark with four other Shrimpers and the situation was further complicated by two yachts which we had caught up. We were lucky to get clear air soon after turning the mark and managed to get third place after ‘Salamanda’ and ‘Camilla’, ahead of ‘Mairi Bahn’ and ‘Salt Horse II’. We felt quite proud to be the first of the non-local people.
We returned to Mylor Harbour for the night. We turned down offers to join Barry for a meal at Castaways and an invite to raft up with the Ashworths and Pumphreys and instead went for a drink at the Sailing Club. Gillie left after a few drinks and Rob stayed for more followed by a meal with Tony , Andrew and Tina at Castaways.
Saturday, 24 June: The first and last days of Shrimper Week have turned out to be the best with gorgeous sunny weather. We spent some time in the morning collecting things from the car that we would need in the Scilly Isles and bought a Daily Telegraph. We then set sail in a light wind round to Pendennis Marina in Falmouth. We did a little exploration up to Penryn, which like many places looked best from the water. We could see much of the town as it was in olden days.
We had put our names down to go for sail in a Falmouth Working Boat, and as soon as we were secure in the marina it was time to get ready to go. Mark picked us up in his rib together with ten others. Six of us were delivered to ‘Grace’ skippered by Charlie and assisted by Ziggy. ‘Grace’, like all the other of the Working boats, is an open decked boat. Standing on the floor boards one needed to be a reasonable height to see overboard. There seemed to be a maze of ropes to handle the different sails. Charlie and Ziggy had already hoisted the main and they immediately instructed us on how to hoist the other sails including a topsail, staysail and jib. Although very complicated, the rigging started to make sense as soon as we got underway. Rob took the helm and obeyed instructions as the sails started to fill. It took a little while for everyone to be settled in a job, but Charlie was everywhere, cheerfully showing each person when and how to haul and release the relevant ropes. Before long we were able to tack smoothly and have the sails filled and looking finely set. There had been talk of a race with the five other Working Boats but after an hour of sailing it was looking unlikely. 
Just then Mark came over in his rib and gave Charlie details of the race course. So suddenly we were in the frenzy of the starting procedure and then we were off – with a good start! We had a triangle and a short beat to the finish. It was a magnificent sight, each boat with different coloured topsails. Rob shared the helm with another Shrimper owner and between them, and nervous instructions from Charlie, managed to fend off the others to take the winning gun over a minute in the lead. There was a hurried return to the mooring in order that the normal crew could take over for their race up to Truro. Gordon Humphrey appeared in his motor boat to ferry us back to the marina after we had said our ‘thank yous’ and ‘good byes’ to Charlie and Ziggy.
We had time to walk to the shops and then tidy up for the 25 th Anniversary Dinner at the National Maritime Museum organised by Colin Campbell. We were welcomed with a glass of wine and canapés provided by Select Yachts. Mark had set up a table draped with an outsize Shrimper Flag and covered with a fine array of prizes. He called for attention and asked Roger Dongray to give away the prizes. This was accompanied by very brief speeches. John Killingsley had made another of his beautiful stained glass Shrimper models to present to Mark. Both Mark and Barry appeared to like the pots that Rob had made for them. We received a very neat pietzer lighter for our 3 rd position in the Anniversary Race.
With nearly two hundred people at the dinner, the Museum did not have enough room for seating in one place, so we were split into two groups. Early sail numbers downstairs, with famous boats and dinghies hanging from the ceiling, and the late sail numbers in the upstairs dining room.
We were given an excellent meal and it was interesting talking to Roger and Clare Woods to find that our 505 sailing days overlapped with theirs – in particular we reminisced about the diminutive Princess Anne at Mount’s Bay presenting a prize to the towering Bill Masterman (over six foot six).
Eventually the evening came to an end and good-byes were said as everyone drifted off. We found our way back to the gate to the marina but had to wait until someone arrived who knew the number to get through.
In spite of some poor weather the week and been quite wonderful for us.
The next week Bumble Chugger went off to the Scilly Isles, more..
